The approach to the fortified 12th-century desert city of Jaisalmer is magical. Dominating the view is the stunning golden fort, which, even today, is home to many of the town’s people. A walk within the fortified walls gives a fascinating insight into life in a bustling Rajasthani city. It exudes an extraordinary medieval feel; the narrow streets lined with golden sandstone walls and exquisite buildings. For those interested in exploring the shifting sand dunes and the desert life around Jaisalmer, a camel safari visiting tribal villages, millet fields and the surrounding wilderness is recommended. The Serai, near Jaisalmer, with its 21 African-style luxurious tented suites, provides ideal accommodation for the discerning traveller.