Italy's sweet secrets: the chocolate & coffee of Turin

The famous cafe culture of Turin is inextricably linked to its position as capital of the Duchy of Savoy, a title granted in 1563. From 1861 to 1865, Turin was the capital city of the Kingdom of Italy, and became known as “the cradle of Italian liberty”, as the unification of the country (the ‘Risorgimento’) was planned and shaped here under the leadership of the Count of Cavour, Camillo Benso. Much of the political discussions and gatherings took place in the elegant cafes of the city, where Piedmontese artists, politicians, aristocrats, intellectuals and revolutionaries met to plot the future of the entire country. Some say that Cavour himself preferred the cafe Stratta, where he would regularly order a cup of hot chocolate as a break from his work in Palazzo Carignano, the stunning baroque palace on Via Accademia delle Scienze. Palazzo Carignano now houses the largest and most important of the 23 Museums of the Risorgimento in Italy, but was once the Chamber of Deputies of the Kingdom of Italy.

Turin is a city of powerful contrasts and important history. The sophisticated grandeur of its baroque mansions stands proudly alongside the elegance of its art nouveau palazzos, the marble triumphalism of its Fascist monuments, and the dullness of its post-war factories and warehouses. But what links all these conflicting elements are the many, many cafes, and with so much competition, especially considering the calibre of their patrons, it’s not surprising that the baristas of the time needed to get creative when it came to offering their customers something innovative and different. These inventions, with their dialectal names reflecting a time before Italian became the lingua franca, included pur e fiur (coffee with whipped cream), pur e barba (coffee and chocolate), and ‘n poc de tut (coffee, whipped cream and chocolate). The last of these has lasted the test of time and remains the most popular to this day – although the name has been changed to bicerin since. 

Six of Turin's most famous cafes

The many historical cafes of Turin are now one of the highlights of this stylish city. Here are some of the most famous.

Stratta is in Piazza San Carlo. Historically, it was a supplier to the Royal family and to the Count of Cavour, amongst many others. Largely due to the cafés, Piazza San Carlo is affectionately known as the ‘salotto’ (drawing room) of the city, and it is easy to lose oneself in the history of this powerful place whilst sitting sipping coffee at one of the tables looking out across the square.

Caffè San Carlo has been at the opposite end of the Piazza San Carlo since 1822, complete with mirrors, chandeliers, plenty of red velvet, marble columns and statuary. Amid the extravagant décor and sense of pomp and circumstance, they serve Caffé Lavazza, a coffee brand founded in Turin in 1895 and coincidentally my favourite.

In Piazza della Consolata you’ll find Caffè al Bicerin, one of the oldest cafés in the city, dating back to 1763. The story goes that the bicerin – a small glass containing even layers of coffee, chocolate and whipped cream, and one of Turin’s most important non-alcoholic drinks – was created here to satisfy the needs of Turinese society as they exited the Santuario della Consolata after Mass. Having fasted prior to taking Communion, congregants felt light-headed and in dire need of a sweet, quick pick-me-up, and a bicerin was just the thing. This café has a long list of famous patrons, including the writers Dumas and Umberto Eco; Nietzsche; the ex-King and Queen of Italy, who stopped by for a final refreshment before going into exile in 1946; Puccini, whose nearby garret apparently inspired his opera La bohème; Gianni Agnelli, the founder of Fiat (which incidentally stands for Fabbrica Italiana Automobili Torino, giving it a clear Turinese identity), to mention but a few. One of the most regular patrons was the man that politically masterminded the Italian unification: the generously proportioned Count Cavour, who reputedly often skipped Mass to sit here at a table with his newspaper and his bicerin, planning his political intrigues whilst waiting for the King to exit the Santuario.  

They make their bicerin by pouring espresso coffee into a cup, then adding a layer of chocolate and finally cold cream. This is not just a cup of coffee, this is a whole gustatory experience, brought to you by the cool silkiness of the cream, followed by the thick, seductively bittersweet layer of chocolate, and finally the sharp shock of the espresso. 

Caffè Fiorio in Via Po’ opened in 1780 and was a popular meeting place of aristocrats and conservatives. It is said that it was at Fiorio that much of the city’s public opinion was shaped during the Unification of Italy, so much so that King Carlo Alberto was often heard to enquire: “What are they saying at Fiorio’s?” 

In Piazza Castello you’ll discover art-deco Mulassano, the favourite cafe of the singer Benedetto Gigli. Originally built in Liberty style in 1907, it was taken over in 1925 by an Italian couple that had immigrated to Detroit but had returned, bringing with them new and innovative eating styles to adapt, along with a very early toaster. This made them responsible for the creation of il toast, the iconic Italian toasted sandwich, and the tramezzino – Italy’s answer to the sandwich. There is even a plaque on the wall commemorating the creation of the tramezzino in this tiny little cafe by Signora Angela Demichelis Nebiolo in 1926, and they offer over 30 different fillings. This beautiful, tiny café – possibly my favourite – is to my mind the place for breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, and their famous sandwiches, of course, and to sip an aperitivo such as a punt e mes. The walls are lined with wooden panels and antique mirrors. The impeccable baristas wear white jackets and bow ties and expertly weave between the tables carrying trays laden with silver handled cups, serving (amongst other things) what is generally accepted to be the best espresso in town. 

Also in Piazza Castello is Baratti & Milano, on the corner of the Galleria Subalpina. This glorious establishment has represented the epitome of luxurious cafe culture in Torino since 1780. It’s filled with chandeliers, gilded furniture, green marble and has bronze statues standing like sentinels in the beautifully dressed window displays. Hot chocolate is the thing here – so dense it needs to be eaten with a spoon; it is bittersweet and utterly decadent. This is also one of the places to enjoy one of Turin’s most famous and extraordinary chocolates: the simply gorgeous giandujotti, made with cocoa and hazelnuts. Turin is largely regarded as being the chocolate capital of Italy and chocolate lovers will not be disappointed by the range and quality of chocolate on offer, although in my opinion nothing beats a hand-made giandujotto for sheer indulgence. Baratti & Milano is also famous for its sweets, always sold in the most glorious packaging, making them a great gift to take away.  

So welcome to Turin, a city of politics, history, cars, chocolate and coffee culture. Explore the many cafes, savour a bicerin and let yourself be transported back to an era of beautiful ladies, elegant gentlemen and powerful, cunning statesmen. 

Read Valentina's other blogs:

Piedmont: Italy's culinary treasure trove | Why Barolo is Italy's King of Wines | Italy's art of truffle hunting | What I love about northern Italian cuisine

Learn more from Valentina Harris about Piedmont's celebrated food and drink by joining her on the five-day Cox & Kings tour, Piedmont with Valentina Harris.

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